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This is John R. K. Clark, a retired fireman and surfer. He probably knows more about the beginning of wave riding in Hawaii than anyone else. He's published 8 books and was signing his latest, HAWAIIAN SURFING--Traditions of the Past, when I met him at the community center. He researched the first Hawaiian language newspapers on Oahu, had them translated, and uncovered many interesting facts about surfing-----waves were ridden six different ways. Want to know more, lots more, go University Press http://www.uhpress.hawaii.edu/ and google his book. Better yet, buy it and educate yourself. It's a great reference book.
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